Musket Miniatures Painting Tips
by Jim McCarron and John Mumby

Many of you have asked for a painting guide for our figures, buildings and scenery. Since the variations of colors and shades used in military uniforms, flags, etc. are limitless, it is impossible to give exact specifications. For guidance we use history, flag and scenery books. Following are some general tips that we have found useful in preparing and painting display figures, buildings and scenery.


Metal Figures And Accessories

Metal miniatures are cast in rubber molds that have been dusted with talc to assist the flow of the metal. Therefore, the castings should be cleaned and primed prior to painting. Use soapy water or a dilute vinegar solution (1 part vinegar / 2 parts water) to clean off any residue. Swish each figure in the solution of your choice for a few seconds and immediately rinse in clean running water and dry (don't leave the figures in the vinegar solution for a long time as they may be damaged by the action of the acid).

Metal figures should always be primed before painting with water-based paint. There are several primer colors available. Inexpensive flat primers in pressurized spray cans work well. If you are using bright colors (red, yellow, etc.) and want vibrant final colors such as on flags, use a white primer. For normal colors use a gray primer. For darker colors use flat black. Black primed figures have the advantage of reducing the need to paint belts, boots, etc. - just paint your clothing colors around the primed areas! However, the colors are somewhat darker.

After priming, it simplifies painting if each figure is mounted on something easy to hold. Some painters use tongue depressors, others small bottles or dowel rods. We prefer to rubber cement or ACC each figure to a flat head roofing nail. Use 20-30 nails which can be placed in holes drilled into a short piece of 2x4 wood. This procedure allows painting of each figure while holding the nail. The nail is easy to rotate with your fingers allowing access to all areas of the figure - without painting your fingers or smearing the figure! After the figures are dry it is easy to pull them off the nail for final mounting.

For painting figures and accessories, we recommend flat water-based acrylic paints. These paints are easy and safe to use - just place a few drops into a paint tray well. Paint trays are essential if you want to experiment with mixing paints to achieve just the right color.

Good brushes are just as important as paint. Sizes 0, 00, and 000 are adequate for general use. If you want to paint minute details you can purchase brushes with fine tips such as 5-0 and 10-0. These extremely fine brushes can be used to paint facial features and flag and uniform details (most painters do not bother to paint facial details on small figures, allowing the natural indentations of the figure to provide definition). Flat tip brushes (1/4 to 1/2 inch wide) are essential for painting bridges, buildings, etc. After you have finished painting, always gently clean each brush in warm water to remove all paint particles. While the brush is moist form the bristles to a point and store the brush standing bristles upright.

After familiarizing yourself with the colors you want to use, start painting from the innermost layer and work out - first flesh, then shirt, trousers, coat, accessories, etc. Each layer can cover any over-painted areas on the layer underneath. If you are doing a group of figures, paint one color on all of the figures to speed up the process. By the time you finish the last figure, the first figures should be dry enough to start painting a second color. Don't be afraid to experiment! Use mixtures of colors to get the shade you want. For example, Civil War uniforms were not always "regulation colors", especially in Confederate units. Many soldiers, as well as civilians, wore home-dyed clothing in a variety of colors and patterns.

After all the colors are dry you can give a worn, weathered look to your figures by using a dilute wash. Mix a very small amount of brown or black paint or ink with water. Using a brush let the wash gently flow over the figure and accumulate in the clothing folds and depressions. When dry, your figures will look dramatically realistic, especially the facial features. For a final protective seal you can spray each figure with a fixative (Krylon Matte Finish works well).

Buildings, Bridges, Vegetation And Earthworks

As with figures, resin castings should be washed with soapy water to remove any mold release residue. Natural wood boards, stone walls or fences, tree bark, weathered buildings, windows, doors, etc. usually have cracks or indentations that are bathed in shadow. To achieve this effect always spray your model with a flat black primer, making sure all cracks, knotholes or other depressions are completely covered.

After the primer has dried, use a dry brush technique to paint the model. To dry brush, place a very small amount of paint on a flat brush tip, then quickly wipe most of it off on scrap paper. Working quickly, very lightly brush the remaining paint onto the model, stroking in ONE direction only (for example, start at the top of a roof and stroke down to the eaves so you don't cover the black shadows under the shingles). Brush on light coats of paint starting with the darkest color and adding progressively lighter shades, finishing with a final highlight shade. For example, to paint a stone bridge, dry brush a dark gray lightly over the stone surface making sure not to cover the shadowed areas. Follow this with a medium gray color, then a light gray, then a touch of tan and finally, a VERY light dusting of white for accent (use yellow for brick or thatch). After you master this technique you will be amazed at the stunning, realistic effects you achieve!

Try these techniques - keep practicing and your painted models will look as good as those in the magazine photos!